Sicily: the ultimate beginners guide

Nestled in the embrace of the Mediterranean Sea, Italy’s most southerly point was overlooked for decades as visitors flocked to Rome and Venice, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast. Now this beautiful corner of Italy is recognised as a jewel in Italy’s crown. Welcome to Sicily, an island of diverse cultures, rich architectural heritage and stunning beauty. Vibrant cities teem with life under the Italian sun, and every cobblestone street, Baroque curve and ancient temple has a tale to tell. Join us as we uncover the treasures of Sicily.

The best towns and cities

Palermo is the perfect gateway to Sicily and serves as an ideal base for exploring the rest of the island. The capital city has the largest historic centre in Europe and is pedestrian-friendly, with many of its architectural gems and cultural landmarks clustered within close proximity, so you can explore at a leisurely pace. Start from the Baroque Quattro Canti, stopping for an espresso at a local café, discovering little alleyways and local shops along the way. Finish with a street food lunch at Mercato di Ballarò, with its stalls selling fresh seafood, spices and local specialties. In the afternoon, take a guided tour of Teatro Massimo, one of Europe's largest opera houses, or for a touch of the macabre, descend into the eerie underground world of the Capuchin Catacombs, where thousands of mummified bodies are preserved in crypts and alcoves.

Catania, Sicily's second-largest city, is another dynamic urban centre where ancient ruins, Baroque architecture and lively street life converge under the shadow of Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano. Take a stroll through Piazza del Duomo and along Via Etnea, the main thoroughfare lined with elegant palaces, boutiques cafés and historic landmarks and go for Pasta con le Sarde in the old town.

Cefalù, a beautiful little town on the north coast, is one of the most romantic towns in Sicily, with picture-perfect beaches and a fishing village vibe. Don’t be deceived by its modest size, this gem of a town punches above its weight in character and charm, with artisan shops, quaint cafés and trattorias serving fresh seafood and Sicilian specialties. Hike up to La Rocca, a towering limestone promontory with panoramic views of the town and coastline then have dinner on the ‘Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro’ in the old town, where every other building seems to be a restaurant.

In the island’s northwest corner, Taormina sits resplendent above the glittering Bay of Naxos. It’s Sicily’s most popular town, attracting visitors with its combination of old-world Sicilian charm and modern sophistication, wonderful restaurants and cool bars with stunning views. The elegant Corso Umberto is the perfect place to stroll, shop and people-watch with a gelato, or find the best Granita in town at the Bam Bar. Taormina overlooks the pretty island of Isola Bella – last seen looking sensational as the backdrop to The White Lotus. Take a tour of the locations seen in the series or, if The Godfather movies are more your thing, join a tour visiting filming locations from the iconic films.

Ortigia Island, the historic centre of Syracusa, is one of the most beautiful and characteristically Sicilian towns on the whole island. It’s Catania’s more elegant and charming cousin, with fewer tourists than Taormina and just as delicious as Palermo. Explore the labyrinthine streets of the Jewish Quarter, discover quaint cafés tucked away in quiet courtyards, sun-drenched squares and vibrant shopping streets. Make like a Sicilian and take an evening stroll or passeggiata along the waterfront promenade at sunset, slip a glass of Etna Bianco with panoramic sea-views and the distant silhouette of Mount Etna.

The coastline of Trapani is simply stunning yet few travellers venture this far west, which means that if you make the effort, you’ll mainly share its traditional old centre and beautiful beach with the locals. Take a boat trip to the Egadi Islands or a cable car to the medieval hilltop village of Erice, a hidden gem, stuck in the Middle Ages with cobbled streets ancient walls and breathtaking views.

The best beaches

At the northwest tip of the island, the 3km long beach at San Vito Lo Capo is considered one of the best in Europe, with shallow turquoise water and a resort feel to the little town. It has both private and free beaches and in the height of summer you may want to pay for the private beach option to ensure a good spot.

Not to be outdone, Mondello beach is considered to be one of Sicily’s finest and is conveniently located just 8km away from Palermo. Local buses run to and from the beach all day and it can get busy, so grab a spot early, then relax, take a dip in the beautiful water and gaze up at Monte Monaco overlooking the bay.

From lofty Taormina, take the cable car down to Isola Bella, a small, semicircular pebble beach whose popularity is partly due to it being a stone’s throw from the tiny romantic island of the same name. You could join the sunbed set in the afternoon, or wait for aperitivo hour, when the crowds have dispersed, and enjoy an unspoiled view of the island.

The south coast of Sicily tends to be hotter than the north due to its proximity to North Africa. Take advantage of the weather and sunshine hours at Cannatello, a small seaside village around 10km from Agrigento with golden sands and clear turquoise water, or at Ragusa’s Punta Secca, with its quaint village atmosphere and four miles of golden sand.

Sicily’s natural wonders

Trekking Mount Etna Volcano or ‘Montebello’ is one of the most interesting activities to do in Sicily. It’s the highest volcano in Europe and one of the most active in the world, but as it’s closely monitored, guided visits are safe and popular and there are plenty of tours from Catania and Taormina. Choose a half-day or full-day trek, or for something less strenuous there are jeep tours to the summit and even spectacular sunset excursions.

Sicily’s northwest corner boasts some beautiful natural areas to get away from the bustling towns and find peace amongst nature. The Zingaro Nature Reserve is a hiker’s paradise, a seven-kilometre-long beautiful coastal path, with views out over the numerous coves and a haven for wildlife.

In the island’s southeast, the Laghetti Cavagrande nature reserve is an oasis of cascading waterfalls, sparkling swimming holes amid amazing limestone formations and even secret ancient tombs. Hike into the canyon with a picnic, take your swimming gear and have a refreshing dip in one of the parks natural crystalline lakes. Head a little further west, and discover the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps, a unique, natural landmark of dramatic white limestone cliffs and terraces forming natural steps descending into the sea, where you can even sunbathe.

Best places for history and architecture

The legacies of Arab, Greek and Roman civilisations endure in Sicily’s many archaeological treasures, and if we had to choose just one, it would be the Valley of the Temples. Just 3km from Agrigento, this stunning collection of well-preserved 5th century BC Greek temples is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s easily worth spending half a day, and you can spend the other half wandering around the old town in Agrigento, also known as the Marvellous City, with some exquisite Baroque architecture. If you love this style visit the beautiful Baroque towns of the Val do Noto.

Sicily boasts not one but two magnificent ancient Greek amphitheatres, including one of the largest and best-preserved in the world in Syracusa, with a seating capacity of 15,000. In Taormina you’ll find possibly the most dramatically situated Greek amphitheatre in the world, which now hosts the annual Taormina Film Festival, attracting celebrities and film enthusiasts.

Food and wine 

Wherever you go in Sicily you won’t be far from the coast and the fresh catch of the day. The most common are tuna, swordfish and fresh sardines, used in the Palermo staple, Pasta con le Sarde – spaghetti with sardines, cooked with fennel, pine nuts and sultanas. Your go-to snack has to be the ubiquitous and delicious Arancini, while a Granita brioche is the perfect refreshing beach-side pick-me up. Trust us on this one.

You can’t open a wine list in Sicily without spotting some homegrown varieties and you shouldn’t leave without trying them. Start with a crisp Etna Bianco, grown in volcanic soils in the shadow of Mount Etna, then proceed to the island native, Nero d’Avola and for a digestif try the island’s famous Marsala. Oenophiles should join a wine tour around the Etna region and learn for themselves what volcanic soil does for the surrounding vines.

When to visit

May to June and September to October are the best times to visit. The late spring and early fall see temperatures hovering between 20°C (68°F) and 25°C (77°F) – perfect for wandering the old towns and exploring archaeological sites without the crowds. April won’t yet be beach weather, but offers plenty of sunshine and warmth, making it an ideal month for hiking and exploring the cities. In July and August visitors the average highs are 30°C (86°F) which means the beaches are busy as Italians and other Europeans take their vacations.

Getting around

For freedom and flexibility, the best way of exploring the island is by car. However, driving in Sicily’s cities and towns can be challenging, and Catania and Palermo can be chaotic, and the old centres have narrow lanes and little parking. Sicily’s train network is reasonably extensive and connects all the major cities and towns with the main airports. Buses are numerous, cheap and reliable but with multiple networks and no central hub, you’ll need to research options in the region you’re visiting.

Make it happen…